I love my Blackberry. Not because it’s the most all singing all dancing smart phone out there, but simply because it means that I can write to and receive messages from my friends and family in an instant. I can be at the supermarket and get a one liner from my sister back in America that makes me laugh and brightens up my day. I don’t have to be trapped in front of a computer screen to keep up with people. Obviously you could do this with text messaging but texting overseas is really expensive, so now with my smart phone, it’s like texting, but it’s not, as it’s email, and it’s free, because I get free data with my contract. Anyway…did not mean to digress into a technical explanation, other than to say that as evil as technology can be, I am enjoying the ability to send messages instantly to people far away.
So it should not have been a huge surprise, when I looked down at my phone one Saturday morning and saw an email from Phumeza, “sent from nokia phone” But she lives in a township in South Africa! how is this possible? They have smart phones there? of course. I hadn’t heard from her in so long. I had sent emails, but knew how difficult it was for her and Noluthando, my other friend, to actually get to a computer. I had also sent text messages, but then I knew how expensive it was for them to text back, and so their replies were understandably few. I also knew that mobile phones change hands, get stolen, and swallowed up in the township, so when I started getting “undeliverable” messages back, I started to fear I’d lost contact with them.
But here it was, A message from Phumeza…from her phone. “It’s Phumeza!!!” I said, to Jon as I quickly read her message. She’d gotten married, she misses us, how are we?? etc. I’m so relieved to be back in contact. I reply to her and send pictures of our family, again so easy to do with my blackberry, and she replies back saying she feels like she knows my children, even though she’s never met Judah. She’s starting an organization she says, and her name is now Nilakhe, because she’s married now. Also, Noluthando’s had a baby boy! Wow.
When you say a tearful goodbye to someone at an airport. Someone you’ve known for a relatively short time, but who you’ve shared a significant part of your life with, and who has taken you places you’d never dreamed. You can’t imagine ever not being in constant touch with them from there on out. But no matter how plugged in we are, distance is still distance. It’s sad because you want to hold on to that feeling of closeness. In the physical, I could hug her, I could share a meal with her, I could be there when things were happening. Now, I’m just a memory, and I can only pray for her and pray she knows that she really was and is still important to me.
When I close my eyes…I see our front room in Mt. Pleasant. The mismatched furniture, the gleaming wood floor, and the sliding doors that lead out to the patio area. That touch of Southern Hemisphere that makes a small humble house feel luxurious. She’s sat there in one of those armchairs that rocks slightly, and she’s silently having contractions, her face giving nothing away in the beginning, and only in the end, she starts to make faces. She doesn’t want to move, but I know she needs to. She’s been sat in that chair since yesterday afternoon, and all through the night…dozing on and off. I make her go for a walk, and we walk up and down the hills of Mt. Pleasant. Past all the lovely houses, the middle road of the “white” community.
Mt. Pleasant was nice in that it felt a bit more open than some of the other more enclosed and gated communities. Many of the houses were old and even shabby looking, dispelling the myth that all white south africans lived in 5 bedroom gleaming gated castles with four or five maids and gardeners looking after them. Sure, many do…but in Mt. Pleasant it felt just a bit more…like you could be walking around a neighbourhood in Wisconsin. Ok maybe not quite like that…but in any case, it must have still looked odd to see a white woman walking around with a heavily pregnant black girl, obviously in labour. In fact, I don’t doubt that some of the people who saw us thought I must be an especially hard driving boss dragging my poor maid around in the hot sun.
The walk did it though. When we got back, things seemed to be kicking in again. My husband who had been self consciously hiding behind his computer this whole time, intervened and suggested it was time to get to the hospital. I’d love to say at this point that full of confidence I insisted she didn’t need the hospital. That we could have the baby right there in our front room….that I would stay by her side while her body did what it was meant to do…but that was pure fantasy. Especially as she was HIV positive and there was a real issue with the whole risk of transmitting it to the baby, not to mention the whole blood being everywhere issue. I may not have been happy with the care she was about to receive, but I knew I was way out of my depth when it came to the whole HIV thing.
As much as I longed for Phumeza to have a positive birth experience, I did not have the knowledge, experience, or skill for something like that. I wished I did though. I wished more than anything that I would not have to drive nearly forty minutes away and drop her off at that prison of a hospital, (NHS African style for all you who like to complain about system here in the UK) I did not want to surrender her to the hands of those nasty nurses who shouted at women while they were in labour, telling them they were stupid, or worse, laughed at them.
I remember a friend asking me later, “did she have a natural birth???” and I had to smile when I told her she really didn’t have a choice. It wasn’t an empowered decision, it was just the way it was. However, I wasn’t upset about leaving Phumeza from a medical point of view. She was a strong young woman despite her status. It was not so much my concern that she would not be able to demand an epidural, but that no one would be there to hold her hand when she went through transition. She told me later that when she got to that point in the process she made quite a scene and the nurses were all laughing at her…she said it with a smile, laughing at herself. I mean, she had to, in the end, you make the best of it and you just get on with it and have your baby I suppose…maybe what I think someone needs or should have in labour is simply cultural, and not a reflection of Phumeza’s reality. I don’t know. All I know is that it was with a heavy heart that we packed her up in the car to take her.
I remember the hugely patronizing look on the nurses face when I feebly ask “can I stay with her?” Of course I couldn’t. Tears sprung to my eyes as I walked back down those hollow creepy halls of Dora Nginsa hospital. I drive home, texting friends while stopped at traffic lights, asking them to pray. She gave birth to a boy, Ashake. I can see her shack in the township. I am thinking ”really? she’s actually going to experience her first few weeks with a new baby..here?”
Those first few weeks that are so hard. I remember my own. But I remember I had carpeting and a big couch to sit on while I stumbled through the early feeding issues, at least I could watch back to back episodes of mindless telly, enjoy someone else’s cooking and have a hot shower. Of course I was stressed and exhausted and worried about all sorts of things…but there wasn’t really anything to be worried about. I was not having to scrounge around for money to buy electricity because I needed it to boil water on a camp stove to ma a bottle of formula because I’d been told not to breastfeed because I may give my him AIDS.*
I remember Christmas Day…I see her walking on the beach, Ashake on her back in my Ergo baby carrier. She looks so free and beautiful. No hint that her life was at risk of being brutally cut short. Back to our house in Mt. Pleasant, it’s dark outside, and I feel the broken bit of the two seater couch at I am scrunched between the two of them, watching movies on the laptop and eating chocolate chip cookies. Jon is in Malawi and they are keeping me company.
One evening, there is a real chill in the air while the wind outside roars around. I am huddled up to our small electric heater, knowing they are just down the road…in a shack…with the same wind blowing outside their walls.
It was a different world. I don’t pretend to understand it…I simply dip in and experience it for a year.
Distance and time have taken their toll already, but certain memories are so clear. I hear our front gate sliding open, the sound of the locks on our front doors, the splash of water as I do dishes in that kitchen, the hum of our two enormous fridges, and make shift cupboard doors slamming shut. Jon makes a splash in the pool every day after cycling home from the after care program where he plays football with township kids surrounded by barbed wire fencing. It’s a sunny day but it’s windy, and the wind sweeps through the house and slams the doors with a force that makes me shudder.
I walk out onto the road outside our driveway, taking Iona for a walk, willing her to have her nap…the ocean in the distance…the sky clear and blue. I close my eyes… and I am back there…..
It’s the relationships I wish I could bring to life in the same way. I know in some ways they were flash in the pan encounters, made easy by the very nature of the fact that we were temporary foreign visitors…we could cross those cultural barriers and dive in and get involved with little restraint because…we were in fact…only there for the short term. It was easy….and I sometimes wish I had that same attitude when it came to reaching out to my people here…in the long term. Yet…no matter how short they were…they were real. I still care about them, and I miss them, and when I close my eyes…I am back there with them….and hopefully now…thanks to my addiction to my blackberry…I can carry them into the future with me.
The little blinking light…telling me I have a message…..when I see it’s from her….it floods me with joy. Keeping the connection is so important to me. It tells me that I’m not a superficial foreigner who simply had a dramatic cross cultural adventure that makes a great story to tell…but someone who had the privilege of being a part of someone’s life….their real life…for a short time…and who still remembers them and cares deeply what happens…as I would for any of my friends that I’ve had the privilege of knowing so far.
So I hope our new “connection via smartphone” lasts. Staying in touch with her would mean a lot to me…because..I miss her. I miss her voice…her smile, and the way she told me stories.
*Months later I finally got a hold of what the official advice is to mothers in Phumeza’s situation, and it was that the risks of transmission of HIV through breastfeeding is less than the risk of infection and illness through bottle feeding in less than ideal circumstances. However, because it’s not sensitive to tell a country that most of their HIV positive mothers are most likely not rich enough to safely bottlefeed, the advice gets distorted and you get mothers in townships giving their babies unsterilized bottles and watered down formula.